SHAKEUPS AND BREAKUPS. Following the fashion weeks earlier this year, designers went forward with their big moves. We’re keeping a tally of this season’s shakeups and breakups
1. BURBERRY
Josh Whitehouse for Mr. Burberry capsule collection
Christopher Bailey of Burberry is not only folding the brand’s three separate lines—Prorsum, Burberry Brit and Burberry London—into one, but will also immediately sell items right after the runway shows.
2. TOM FORD
Male models wearing Tom Ford collection
Like Burberry, Tom Ford will also be doing the See-Now, Buy-Now business model. The brand is set to combine his men’s and women’s fall 2016 show into one, which will be held in September.
3. TOMMY HILFIGER
Lucky Blue Smith for Tommy Jeans
Add Tommy Hilfiger to the list of designers merging its men’s and women’s runway shows. Tommy Hilfiger has also adopted the See-Now, Buy-Now method, making the brand’s collections available immediately for consumers.
4. PAUL SMITH
Paul Smith and his models backstage
Paul Smith, meanwhile, is slimming down to two lines, Paul Smith and PS by Paul Smith.
5. BRIONI
Justin O’Shea
Italian sartorial giant Brioni let go of creative director Brendan Mullane, and appointed Justin O’Shea, previously the fashion director of e-commerce website MyTheresa.com, as the replacement.
6. BERLUTI
Alessandro Sartori
Berluti followed suit by parting ways with Alessandro Sartori, who had been with the brand for five years.
7. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Stefano Pilati
Designer Stefano Pilati exited Ermenegildo Zegna, and was succeeded by Alessandro Sartori, who had previously masterminded the Z Zegna line before he left the brand for Berluti.
8. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
Douglas Booth in Salvatore Ferragamo
Massimiliano Giornetti announced his resignation from Salvatore Ferragamo in late March. As of now, the brand hasn’t chosen a replacement and its in-house team will take over all designing duties.
9. SAINT LAURENT
Anthony Vaccarello
After months of rumors and speculations, Hedi Slimane finally confirmed his exit from Saint Laurent in early April. The brand then appointed Anthony Vaccarello just a few hours after the designer left Versus Versace. Saint Laurent also deleted all of its old Instagram posts to signify a new era; an action that doesn’t sit too well with Slimane’s loyal supporters.
10. GUCCI
An image from Gucci’s pre-fall 2016 ad campaign
It was going to happen sooner or later. In a move that seems natural to gender-bluring Gucci, Alessandro Michele will combine men’s and women’s fashion shows starting in 2017.
11. PUBLIC SCHOOL
Public School show during New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015
Public School declared plan to change its show schedule. The brand will present men’s and women’s collections together in December and June. It will also label the collections as “Collection 1” (for pre-spring and spring) and “Collection 2” (for pre-fall and fall).
12. CALVIN KLEIN
Italo Zucchelli
Calvin Klein‘s Men’s Creative Director Italo Zucchelli, along with Fransisco Costa, his counterpart in the Women’s department, left the brand at the same time. There have been rumors of Raf Simons‘ impending appointment, so we’ll just have to wait and see.
12. CANALI
After two years, Andrea Pompilio has decided to part ways with Canali. Reports say this decision is a mutual agreement between the two parties. An in-house team will work on the brand’s spring 2017 collection.
13. BOTTEGA VENETA
The brand’s spring/summer 2017 show at Milan Fashion Week this September will be a monumental one for Bottega Veneta. Not only will it coincide with the brand’s 50th birthday and the anniversary of Tomas Maier’s 15th year as Creative Director, the show also marks the first time Bottega Veneta will present its men’s and women’s collections together.
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