DA MAN Runway Report: New York

A myriad of outerwear becomes the main highlight of fall/winter 2019/20 in both of New York’s Fashion Weeks.

Runway looks from BOSS

Change in fashion industry, as they say, is inevitable. From trends to the designers and the collections, all will change with the seasons. Naturally, change is also happening in New York City, including at New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Historically, New York Fashion Week: Men’s was launched in 2015 to provide an inclusive and supportive platform dedicated to emerging and established menswear designers. Since then, it has become a separate entity to New York Fashion Week and evolved its own identity.

And then things changed again. Starting this fall/winter season, both fashion weeks were combined into one, with menswear and womenswear runway shows overlapping. On the downside, several big names were notably absent. Still, amid all of these shifts, New York Fashion Week: Men’s and New York Fashion Week hasn’t failed to impress yet.

Outerwear is the Key

It wouldn’t have been a fall/winter fashion week without a strong showing of outerwear. And in that respect, New York certainly delivered, with outerwear pieces being prominently showcased across all attending brands and all of the runways. One of the standouts in this respect are the long greatcoats and capes in shearling, alpaca wool and double-faced cashmere from BOSS. It would certainly seem that the brand is focusing on tailored coats for this season.


Furthermore, the brand’s crafted patchwork and stripe constructions sit alongside new takes on quilting, which extend from outerwear to sweaters, vests and pants, while raw-edge finishes and stitching details further underscore the elevated feel of this curated collection. Also notable, the collection was completed in a core palette of camel, mélange gray, biscuit, winter white and also accents that include cool yellow together with a mix of blues brought to life with flashes of dark blush pink.

“it would certainly seem that ‘back to seventies’
is a recurring inspiration for some of the designers this season”

Todd Snyder, a leading name in the New York fashion scene since he launched his eponymous menswear label, also decided to shine a spotlight on but with a bit of a throwback to the seventies. Take, for example, his chocolate brown corduroy parka over a black-and-white checkerboard sweater, the rock star shearlings and the oversize statement puffer jacket in vibrant colors. In short, his presentation on the runway felt like a walk down memory lane. Special mention goes to the velvet sweatpants, a reconstructed Iowa State hoodie, leather coats and houndstooth printed sweaters that beautifully showcases its relaxed proportions and truly set the perfect ’70s tone.

Completed in a vivid color palette of purples, oranges, jewel greens and a rainbow of fluorescent lights as an extra layer of nostalgia, all of these pieces are designed to catch the eye. One thing for sure, the collection showed something that Snyder knows best: Effortless, everyday luxury for the modern gentleman with a blend of Savile Row craftsmanship and a downtown New York aesthetic.
Moreover, it would certainly seem that “back to seventies” is a recurring inspiration for some of the designers this season. Michael Kors, for instance, turned to Studio 54’s theatrical aura, which called for lots of opulence and no rules. “This collection is an homage to the diverse melting pot of style that is New York City,” explained Kors. “The mood is eclectic, joyous and glamorous, inspired by the gritty yet electrifying city I moved to in the late 1970s.”

Hence, the collection starts with the iconic logo, rendered in sequins, in glitter and as a print. It adorns everything from cashmere T-shirts and puffer coats to handbags of all sizes. Then, he embraced the evening’s exuberance in a daring mix of grace and glamour, with cashmere bodysuits, lush wraps, asymmetrical hemlines and neutral hues that capture the easy movement and romantic spirit of dance. There was also a tuxedo jumpsuit, which is sharply executed, and belted safari jackets as the seventies fest continued for the menswear.

Playful retro from Michael Kors
Michael Kors after the presentation

A Unique Approach

Much in the same way, Landlord’s Ryohei Kawanishi gave everybody a show to remember. His main idea was a vision of back to school—quite literally, that is. He brought a collection that was inspired by students, from kindergarten to graduate school. Models stormed down the runway wearing varsity jackets that was made from striped school uniform fabrics, blazer jackets with mixed panels of herringbone check and bright corduroy, structured sweatshirts and wool sweatpants.

There were also statement pieces like the vibrant neon leather coats and jackets that came with plenty of utility pockets. As “formal meets informal” became this season’s uniform with playful colors and shapes that truly made a fashion statement, Landlord’s collection once again highlighted Kawanishi’s unique approach to designing.

Throwback to the seventies from Todd Snyder
School vibes from Landlord
Psychedelic approach on Coach 1941

Speaking of unique, Stuart Vevers of Coach 1941 closed out the fashion week with psychedelic touches, as the dress codes of subcultures were dismantled and reassembled. The collection consisted of updated outerwear: From heavy-duty shearling and leopard print bomber jackets to reversible jackets. In the end, Vevers managed to present a light collection that emphasized outerwear, with a mash-up of joyful defiance and free-spirited grit.

This time around, compared to its older siblings in Paris, London and Milan, New York—being the youngest fashion capital—went through quite a significant change. But the fashion scene of the Big Apple certainly showcased and proved its reputation as being much more open. It also fully embraced the city’s boundless creativity.

“New York in the ’70s was a melting pot of style—the streets were like a runway”

In short, Michael Kors said it best when he described it thusly: “New York in the ’70s was a melting pot of style—the streets were like a runway. It was a gritty time but people were having fun and embracing glamour and style.” Sure, he was talking about the background story for his fall/winter collection at the time; but then again, it’s definitely not too much to say that this goes for the whole New York fashion experience this season.