Through razor-sharp tailoring, strategic exposure and a distorted play of reflections, Haider Ackermann explores a more restrained form of sensuality for Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection
Under Haider Ackermann, Tom Ford’s signature sensuality takes on a more controlled edge. The house’s codes remain intact, but the cut is sharper, the exposure more deliberate and the tension between concealment and revelation more pronounced.
For Spring/Summer 2027, that tension began before the runway show. In a preview featuring Scott Barnhill alone with his reflection, the model played to the mirror, setting the stage for a collection built around the interplay of image and reality.
Mirrors became the runway’s central motif, multiplying and distorting each look as the models passed. The shifting reflections offered alternative perspectives on the clothes, bringing the precision of the tailoring into sharper focus as Tina Turner and David Bowie filled the room.
The opening sequence established the familiar Tom Ford attitude: models moved with studied nonchalance in razor-cut tailoring, their lean, double-breasted jackets left open to the navel. Black and navy dominated at first, before the palette shifted in the second half to Bourdin crimson, lacquered ruby, washed-out blue and deep olive.
The provocation, meanwhile, was less overt but no less assured. Bodysuits carried the sensual charge on their own, worn bare or tucked neatly into trousers. Briefs paired with a matching sweater extended the same interplay of ease and exposure, balancing intimacy with intention.
This is seduction through Ackermann’s lens: not loudly declared, but carefully controlled, reflected and refracted. Tom Ford retains its confidence, finding a new expression in restraint.