Interestingly, Lucas Ossendrijver also put together a strongly sentimental collection for Lanvin. After his longtime collaborator, Alber Elbaz, left his position as creative director of the house’s womenswear line, Ossendrijver started questioning his motivation in designing. At the same time, Elbaz’ sudden departure fueled his creativity to present utterly wearable clothes on the runway. Soft-looking textures and gem colors highlighted his fall/winter offerings, along with a worn-in quality that was unmistakably Lanvin. Nonetheless, the lineup looked exuberant, as stitching details were balanced with exemplary knitwear in one harmonious, coherent collection.
Consistency, however, can sometimes be mistaken for monotony. The artistic director of Hermès Men, Véronique Nichanian, cleverly avoided the latter with her creations. It was particularly interesting to note how varied and playful her outing was for this season. Khakis, blues and pinks freshened up the collection, which was topped off with brilliantly styled silk scarves. The overall vibe, as always, was relaxed. At first glimpse, those pieces came across as being simple—perhaps a bit too simple. But, Nichanian has always been a master of discreet luxury, with a knack for making the wearer revel in her pieces even without noticeable logos. She employed cashmere, silk and even crocodile skin to orchestrate an understated string of clothes. The result hit all the right notes: Carefully curated yet playfully arresting.
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