A stellar example would be Louis Vuitton. Taking a different approach than his usual exotic excursions, men’s creative director Kim Jones paid homage to the city he called home for the past five years. Although using Paris as a theme comes off as a tad repetitive, especially given how Louis Vuitton has taken its retrospective exhibition “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez” to several countries, Jones still executed his idea impeccably. The aforementioned phrase was beautifully printed on silk scarves and shirts, which undoubtedly will make an appearance in many editorials. But the highlights were mainly the workwear-inspired outerwear with large pockets and prominent use of the Monogram Eclipse on a bevy of bags. With Shinji Ohmaki’s “Liminal Air Space-Time” giving the show a sentimental touch, the collection felt fittingly personal. “Everything was deep. The color was deep,” said Xavier Dolan, Louis Vuitton’s brand ambassador and campaign star, after the show.
Going in the opposite direction was Kris Van Assche from Dior Homme. He took a break from reinterpreting the house’s heritage, and instead opted for a more casual outing. “Mr. Dior was not a starting point. He’s always there, but I wanted it to be much more about today,” he explained. Upon arriving, guests were greeted by skate ramps, a literal translation of Van Assche’s inspiration this season. The suits were no longer skinny but instead loose, completed with neck charms and bows. The trousers were especially roomy, and the overall mood was more relaxed than usual. The designer definitely upped his ante this time, keeping up with the aforementioned movement to ready-to-wear pieces that are beyond suits.
If Dior Homme used “street” to make the brand look sleek, Gosha Rubchinskiy was a true street kid whose design harkened back to post-Soviet Russia. Rebellious, quirky and raw, Rubchinskiy’s singular aesthetic was soon setting a bar for others that followed. This season, he was influenced by the punks of the 1990s. And, boy, did his design feel like an original breath of fresh air in Paris. Oversized leather jackets, sweatshirts bearing the brand’s logo and baggy denim trousers might not sound all that appealing, but in the hands of the designer, they turned into the archetypal cool kid’s clothing essentials. Outside the show, you would be able to see many kids donning his apparels, looking strikingly bold in their Rubchinskiy’s getups.
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