PARIS EXUBERANCE. With more freedom, clearer visions and engaging narratives, the designers of Paris have composed rich collections that celebrate personal styles
A scene from Kenzo’s Fall/Winter ’16/’17 show in Paris
Back then, the menswear industry thrived on men who ordered suits. Today, a significant part of the business is comprised of ready-to-wear clothes and dashing accessories. Despite the fact that tailoring—sometimes in playful, innovative forms—still define a large chunk of what designers have to offer, identity and attitude of the men actually wearing the clothes pretty much determine where menswear is going. At the moment, it is going forward at a steady rate as more brands depend on its menswear departments following slower profit growth in womenswear.
The exciting vibes of menswear were strongly felt back during the last week of January, when Paris Men’s Fashion Week was held. When the womenswear industry was shaken with a rush of resignations, the menswear field felt relatively calmer. Yes, Italo Zucchelli, Massimiliano Giornetti and Alessandro Sartori have closed their chapters in Calvin Klein, Salvatore Ferragamo and Berluti, respectively; but the giants of Paris—Kim Jones, Véronique Nichanian and Kris Van Assche, just to name a few—are still around with even more dynamic visions as well as boundary-pushing aesthetics.
Louis Vuitton’s slogan, “Volez, Voguez, Voyagez,” emblazoned on the clothes
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