Lionel Favre, Product Design Director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, talks about the maison’s creative process and its ongoing pursuit of horological excellence

Jaeger-LeCoultre has consistently distinguished itself in the world of high watchmaking through its strong design philosophy. The nearly two-centuries-old watchmaker is also steadfastly dedicated to honoring exceptional craftsmanship and its rich heritage, all while embracing innovation that respects its illustrious history.

The stunning array of timepieces that the maison unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva exemplifies this notion.

From this lineup, the Duomètre line took center stage with the Chronograph Moon, Quantième Lunaire and the distinguished Héliotourbillon Perpetual. A standout among these, the Héliotourbillon Perpetual dazzles with a triple-axis tourbillon and elegant pink gold case, thoughtfully reimagined to evoke the iconic savonette pocket watches of the 19^th century. This delicate balance of timeless style with advanced watchmaking speaks volumes about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to heritage and innovation.

And to learn more about the stories behind these watches, DA MAN Caliber once again turned to the Product Design Director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lionel Favre.

DAMAN: How does this year’s collection differ from last year—especially in terms of focus? We certainly noticed that the star of last year was the Reverso, while this year it seems to be the Duometre’s turn…
Lionel Favre: Our decision to spotlight a particular collection each year is based on several factors. Last year’s collection was more focused on the Reverso and the concept of the Golden Ratio. This year, we are focusing on the Duometre, with complex mechanisms including a chronograph, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar. These are watchmaking complications that emphasize precision, which is a fundamental aspect of our brand’s history.

With a diverse portfolio including the Reverso, Duometre, Rendez-Vous, Master, Polaris, the 101 and Atmos, it’s essential to highlight different lines and to provide visibility for each of these collections. We chose the Duometre as this year’s focus to reinvigorate the collection with a fresh case design and new models. Similar to the iconic Reverso, the Duometre is seen as a key pillar of our brand identity.

DA: Speaking about the Duometre, how do you and your team approach the development of incredibly complex features like the triple-axis tourbillon in the Duomètre Héliotourbillon Perpetual?
LF: The development of such complex features is a collaborative effort. The watch features an entirely new tourbillon construction, one that rotates on three axes to create a spinning top effect. We start with the design team and engage in regular meetings with engineers who specialize in multi-axis tourbillons. These discussions balance aesthetics, reliability and precision. It’s a lengthy process to ensure that we achieve a reliable and precise result that also meets our design standards.

DA: How do you express creativity and innovation in watch design while respecting Jaeger-LeCoultre’s heritage?
LF: We are fortunate to have a rich history to draw inspiration from. Our goal is not to break the rules but to understand and be inspired by watchmaking traditions. We strive to create modern designs that still feel rooted in tradition. Our watches should always reflect this heritage while expressing a sense of modernity.

We are fortunate to have a rich history to draw inspiration from. Our goal is not to break the rules but to understand and be inspired by watchmaking traditions

DA: How does the extensive archive at Jaeger-LeCoultre influence your designs?
LF: Our archives are a valuable source of inspiration. They help us understand the evolution of design and the techniques used in the past. While it can be challenging to choose from such a wealth of material, it’s also incredibly rewarding. Our design process involves finding harmony and balance, which takes time and numerous iterations. The archives provide a foundation that we build upon to create modern yet traditionally inspired designs.

Close-up of the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

DA: On a related note, how do you balance the need for innovation with the importance of tradition in your designs?
LF: Balancing innovation and tradition is key. We respect the watchmaking codes and traditions that define Jaeger-LeCoultre while introducing modern elements. This balance is achieved through a deep understanding of our history and the skills we’ve acquired over the centuries. Every design aims to reflect the tradition while embracing modernity, ensuring that our watches resonate with both the past and the future.

Balancing innovation and tradition is key. We respect the watchmaking codes and traditions that define Jaeger-LeCoultre while introducing modern elements

DA: And how do you ensure that each new design maintains the maison’s famed consistency and coherence?
LF: Maintaining consistency and coherence across our collections involves a careful balance of innovation and tradition. We have a collaborative process where ideas are rigorously evaluated to ensure they align with our brand’s identity. This includes regular discussions and feedback sessions to refine designs. The result is a cohesive collection that honors our heritage while embracing new and innovative elements.

Movement of the Duometre Chronograph Moon

DA: Is there a specific model that you believe best represents Jaeger-LeCoultre’s current direction?
LF: The Reverso is undeniably linked to the maison and is a strong representation of our identity. However, we are proud to have a diverse range of collections, each with its own significance. From the Duometre, Memovox, Geophysic, which emphasizes precision, to the Rendez-Vous for ladies and our grand complications, each collection reflects the core values and craftsmanship of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

A component from the Calibre 381 movement

DA: Let’s talk about the Reverso. What is it that makes the Reverso a must-have for so many watch enthusiasts?
LF: The Reverso is an iconic model with a unique design that has stood the test of time. Its art deco style, the Polo heritage and the ability to personalize it with engravings or other customizations make it special. The Reverso’s versatility and timeless appeal make it a must-have for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate both its historical significance and its modern relevance.

Jaeger LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual

DA: Last but not least, what recent trends have you noticed in the watch industry? Especially, in terms of creative developments and consumer demand?
LF: There is a growing interest in grand complications and a shift in the perception of watches from functional tools to objects of art. Collectors and consumers are becoming more educated and demanding high quality. They appreciate the intricate details and craftsmanship that go into creating complex watches. I’m also happy with the comeback of elegance. I feel that elegant pieces have become more important again. This trend is beneficial for us, as we have a diverse collection that includes many complex timepieces.

With Lionel Favre on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s creative odyssey

DAMAN Caliber 2024,

Jaeger-LeCoultre,

Lionel Favre