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Hot and Cold: 6 fragrances for this year’s midsummer

From a cocktail-inspired blend to a creamy elixir that evokes vanilla frenzy, this season’s recommendations offer olfactory explorations, each narrating a distinct tale of creativity.

On Fire

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Following the success of Bulgari Man in Black, Bulgari introduces the Bulgari Man in Black Parfum that promises elevated intensity. The fragrance is the brainchild of Alberto Morillas, who was inspired by the power of fire. Black pepper, cardamom and cinnamon form the spicy opening, juxtaposed with elemi. A major difference from its predecessor is the lack of leather notes accompanying iris and tuberose which was notable in the first Bulgari Man in Black. Now, the flowers are allowed to showcase their nuanced and powdery charm. The fragrance eventually dries down to a dark woody accord comprising cypriol and Indonesian patchouli notes enriched with Siam benzoin. Bulgari brand ambassador Lorenzo Viotti stars in the fragrance’s campaign.

(Never) Too Much Vanilla

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This year, Tom Ford unveiled a new formulation of its famed 2017 creation, Vanille Fatale. Departing from the balsamic and citrusy notes of its predecessor, the 2024 version highlights the coffee-vanilla aspect of the fragrance. It opens with a warm spicy duet of saffron and coriander, which gradually gives way to the coffee notes, enriched with a fresh floral hint and the smokiness of roasted barley. At its base, Madagascar vanilla reigns alongside tobacco and mahogany notes, while suede lends a leathery touch to the blend.

For the Discerning Gent

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Iris and whiskey may sound like an unlikely pair, but Givenchy’s Gentleman EDP Reserve Privée shows how this duo can be the perfect match made. Perfumers Nathalie Lorson and Olivier Cresp have expertly combined the powdery aspect of iris with the intensity of whiskey, resulting in a creation that exudes sensuality. Bergamot and whiskey notes give fresh booziness to the opening. Iris then follows suit, heralding notes of chestnut and Siam benzoin that add more complexity to the blend. The base is a rich, woody layer of Virginian cedarwood with a fascinating earthy facet, thanks to Haitian vetiver and Indonesian patchouli. Available at Sephora.

A Summer Staple

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A gin and tonic is the perfect refreshment on a hot, summer day. And now, you can actually wear this classic cocktail. GnTonic by M. Micallef combines the freshness of citrus with floral and earthy accords. The opening features gin and tonic water as the main notes, joined by bigarade and lime. Ginger, pink pepper and mint follow with an effervescent effect. At the heart, a duet of lily of the valley and orange blossom emerges, followed by nutmeg and cedarwood notes. As the top layers dissipate, vetiver and moss come to the forefront, while musk, sandalwood and amber leave a sensual trail. GnTonic is available at Amaris.

Simply Electric

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With its bold and spicy profile, Bad Boy has become one of Carolina Herrera’s most prominent olfactive creations. Now, the iconic lightning bolt goes blue with the Bad Boy Cobalt Électrique. Through this fragrance, perfumer Domitille Michalon Bertier translates modern masculinity and wild freshness into a woody aromatic composition. The perfume opens with notes of pink pepper that work in tandem with lavender. The heart presents invigorating juiciness, courtesy of geranium and plum. Later, truffle accords form a unique, mineral base, further infused with cedarwood, oakwood and vetiver. Formulated as eau de parfum, the blend is packaged in—quite appropriately—a blue flacon. Carolina Herrera is available at Galeries Lafayette.

Quiet, Quiet Night

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For The House of Oud, perfumer Andrea Casotti formulated a rose-oud-based elixir that ignites the imagination. Dubbed Blessing Silence, the perfume is inspired by a quiet night in the desert—the perfect setting for contemplation and self-reflection. The journey begins with notes of labdanum, evoking a sense of warm and mystery while Patchouli emerges at the heart, adding fresh spiciness to the blend. The fragrance dries down to an enchanting base of oud and rose, enriched by the creaminess of sandalwood. Blessing Silence is packaged in a palm-sized oval bottle decorated using cracking painting technique, making it a work of art in and of itself. Available at C&F.