Bvlgari’s journey of watchmaking in 2024 reaches an exhilarating crescendo with musical-themed novelties unveiled at Geneva Watch Days. DAMAN Caliber talks with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani to discover The Sound of Bvlgari.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
Roman jeweler and watchmaker Bvlgari has been hitting the high notes all year long. Which perhaps should come as no surprise, as 2024 marks the brand’s 140th anniversary, as well as the 10th for the Octo Finissimo family of watches. At the start of the year, Bvlgari broke yet another world record, this time for the slimmest COSC-certified chronometer ever produced with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. There were also two new variations of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual, three versions of the limited-edition Octo Finissimo Sketch and many more.
The Bvlgari manufacture in Le Sentier
Then, for the second half of the year, Bvlgari ramped things up with a series of spectacular releases at Geneva Watch Days 2024. With “The Sound of Bvlgari” as the unifying theme, the brand’s latest releases shine the spotlight on minute repeaters through pieces like the Octo Roma Grande Sonerie, collaborations with the likes of Fender and Swiss conductor Lorenzo Viotti, along with many other feats of high-end watchmaking.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani
To learn more about these novelties and Bvlgari’s journey throughout the year, we talked to the brand’s Executive Director of Product Creation, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani.
DAMAN: How did “The sound of Bvlgari” become the theme for Bvlgari’s showcase at Geneva Watch Days this year? Or perhaps, how did sound and music become the focal point for this period of time? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani: The theme “The Sound of Bvlgari” emerged from our deep-rooted passion for blending art with technical innovation. Music and sound have a unique ability to evoke emotion, much like our timepieces. This year, we wanted to emphasize this emotional connection by exploring the auditory dimension of watchmaking. The resonance of a chime, the rhythm of a movement, and the harmony of design and function are all integral to our craft. It felt natural to bring sound and music into focus as they perfectly encapsulate the spirit and complexity of our work.
The Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon
DA: The Octo Roma Grande Sonerie is said to be “the most complex watch ever created by Bvlgari. Can you give us some insight into the development of this piece? In particular, what were the biggest challenges that you had to overcome in order to realize this design?
FBS: The Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie represents the pinnacle of our horological expertise. Developing this piece was a monumental challenge, primarily because we aimed to create a timepiece that combines exceptional sound quality with Bvlgari’s distinctive aesthetic. The biggest hurdle was integrating the Grande Sonnerie mechanism within the sleek Octo Roma case while ensuring that the acoustics were not compromised. Balancing form and function in such a complex mechanism required innovative engineering solutions and countless hours of fine-tuning.
Lorenzo Viotti
DA: Can you also give us some insight on Lorenzo Viotti’s involvement in the creation of Bvlgari’s new chiming watches? More often than not, when you hear about musicians collaborating with watch brands, it’s as ambassadors collaborating on campaign imagery or special edition watches; but, of course, we’re assuming that your collaboration with Lorenzo Viotti is much more technical…
FBS: Lorenzo Viotti’s involvement went far beyond a typical ambassadorial role. As a conductor, his acute sense of sound and timing made him an invaluable collaborator in refining the acoustic performance of our chiming watches. We worked closely with Lorenzo to ensure that the chime of the watch would resonate with the same clarity and emotion as a perfectly tuned orchestra. His feedback was crucial in achieving the precise tonality and rhythm that we desired, ensuring that our timepieces are not just mechanical marvels but also symphonic in their execution.
Swiss conductor Lorenzo Viotti wearing the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon
DA: The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition also caught our attention. Can you tell us how this collaboration came to be? FBS: The collaboration with Fender was born out of a shared love for innovation and a commitment to craftsmanship. Fender’s legendary status in the music world, particularly with their iconic guitars, resonated with Bvlgari’s dedication to pushing boundaries in watchmaking. We saw an opportunity to blend the worlds of music and horology in a way that celebrates the artistry and technical prowess of both brands. The result is a timepiece that echoes the spirit of rock and roll, combined with Bvlgari’s flair for design.
We saw an opportunity to blend the worlds of music and horology … the result is a timepiece that echoes the spirit of rock and roll, combined with Bvlgari’s flair for design
The Bvlgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition
DA: What kind of creative input came from Fender for this collaboration?
FBS: Fender was deeply involved in the creative process, particularly in terms of design and thematic direction. Their input helped shape the aesthetic of the watch, ensuring it captured the essence of Fender’s heritage. From the selection of materials to the color scheme and even the finer details like the texture of the dial, Fender’s influence is apparent. This collaboration was about more than just branding; it was a true fusion of our respective identities, resulting in a piece that reflects the DNA of both companies.
DA: If we could look back a bit to some of the highlights of Bvlgari’s watchmaking department in 2024, a definite milestone was the record-breaking Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, which marks the ninth world record for the Octo Finissimo collection. Now, as the collection turns a decade, how important are these records for Bvlgari? And what kind of new milestones do you hope to achieve through the Octo Finissimo collection?
FBS: The records we’ve achieved with the Octo Finissimo collection are not just about setting benchmarks; they’re about pushing the limits of what is possible in watchmaking. Each record reflects our relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation. As the collection celebrates its tenth anniversary, these milestones reaffirm Bvlgari’s position at the forefront of the industry. Looking ahead, we aim to continue breaking boundaries, exploring new materials, and refining the ultra-thin architecture that defines the Octo Finissimo. Our goal is to keep elevating the art of watchmaking to new heights.
The records we’ve achieved with the Octo Finissimo collection are not just about setting benchmarks; they’re about pushing the limits of what is possible in watchmaking
Inside the Bvlgari manufacture
DA: Perhaps a personal favorite of ours from this year’s lineup is the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Sketch. Can you tell us about how you came up with the idea of featuring your sketches on the dial of a watch?
FBS: The idea behind the Octo Finissimo Sketch was to create a watch that embodies the raw, creative process of design. Often, the initial sketches capture the essence of an idea in its purest form, before it undergoes refinement. I wanted to bring that spontaneity and energy to the forefront. By featuring my original sketches on the dial, we’ve created a piece that is both personal and artistic, offering a glimpse into the creative journey that defines every Bvlgari watch.
DA: Finally, which 2024 novelty do you think best represents Bvlgari’s journey in watchmaking this year? FBS: It’s difficult to choose just one, but the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie stands out as a symbol of our journey this year. It embodies our commitment to blending technical mastery with artistic expression. This timepiece not only showcases our capabilities in creating complex mechanisms but also highlights our dedication to pushing the boundaries of design and innovation. It’s a watch that truly represents the intersection of tradition and modernity, which is at the heart of Bvlgari’s watchmaking philosophy.