Zenith’s CEO Julien Tornare chats with DAMAN to share new insight into the brand’s strategy, its new Pilot Collection and more.
Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Zenith announced a shift in focus to its iconic Pilot collection. The brand-new Pilot lineup, which was completely developed from the ground up, forgoes the collection’s historical style in favor of something that draws inspiration from both the past and present. That being said, the collection still adheres to the standards for Pilot watches that Zenith established over a century ago, but these principles were reinterpreted in a more modern setting with some extra Zenith flair and discreet allusions to the aviation industry.
As Zenith’s longest-running line, the Pilot collection has evolved into a balancing act between heritage and modernism. And more importantly, Zenith continues to uphold and build upon this unparalleled heritage. To learn more about the brand’s strategy and this year’s novelties, we once again spoke to the man in charge: Zenith’s CEO, Julian Tornare.
DAMAN: What are the main highlights for Zenith this year?
Julian Tornare: The main focus is very important: It’s the big comeback of the Pilot Collection. You remember we have been repositioning the Defy Collection over the last few years. In 2021, we also reintroduced the new Chronomaster Collection, which was a tremendous success. And Pilot was essential to repositioning as well. So that’s main focus for 2023. Why? Because Pilot, in the past, was very much vintage type; now we want it to be a contemporary product line. The vintage one will continue through the Revival dimension. But the main collection is the 21st century Pilot collection.
For example, the new Pilot Big Date Flyback. That’s the Chronograph in ceramic with the new El Primero movement that includes an instantaneous big date. That’s very rare. And, of course, the flyback function is very much linked to planes and aviation. That’s why we wanted to have these two complications. It is a lovely dial with a fuselage type, so it is a warm and exciting dial with a great shape and all the attributes of the Pilot collection.
DA: Now that the the new Pilot collection has been out for quite a while, how has the response been from both retailers as well as customers?
JT: The truth is, it’s been incredible. I can tell you that near the end of the second day of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023, we have already reached our objectives. I knew it would be that way; but you never really know, right? The global economy is not at its best and people can be concerned. But, we have had incredible results nonetheless. I’m very happy because that’s the objective: To have the third strong pillar, a strong launch, as we did two years ago with the Chronomaster Sport, last year with Defy Skyline and this year was the Pilot’s turn. I’m happy. It’s super positive.
DA: Essentially, you’re creating a new canvas for the new generation of the Pilot collection. What kind of complications can we expect to see in the future?
JT: You can only expect complications linked to pilots and aviation. I’m not going to put a perpetual calendar in there; I’m not going to put a tourbillon in the pilot watch. But you can expect GMTs, dual time, world time and different things linked to travel, pilots and aviation. That’s the key: always in the spirit of modernity and being contemporary. Because today, if you want to attract Generation X, Y, Z and ensure they don’t wear a cell phone on their wrist or no watch, we have to talk to them the right way. If we continue to do business as we did 25 years ago, they will disappear. That’s important. INSIDER It’s my responsibility to ensure we listen, especially to young people.
DA: Is listening to your customers about how you would design the watch part of the brand strategy?
JT: Yes, that’s part of the brand strategy because when I joined, the brand tended to be too much turned to the past, repeating the past. And people were starting to look at Zenith as an old brand and that’s wrong. So, when I came on board, I said, we have a rich history, so let’s have four product lines, okay? The Defy, Chronomaster, Pilot and Elite. And then we built a concept here called revival, so that we can introduce and reproduce revivals in each of the categories. But the top of the line must be modern in today’s world.
DA: How do you balance listening to the customer’s needs and wants versus pushing the brand’s vision?
JT: It’s pretty simple. First of all, we listen. And you know, unfortunately, sometimes egos are huge in this industry, and people don’t listen anymore. I’m a market guy, so I often go to markets and listen to people. I love to listen to your comments, retailers and end clients so you can get more information. Then you can integrate this and make sure it gets well into the brand strategy. But at least you listen. And that helps a lot. It’s straightforward. Everyone has two ears, so we’re all equipped to listen. But still, many people need to listen. That’s the difference. We listen and then consider what we can do with the best product. I’ve been talking a lot to people to know what kind of pilot watch we should do and where Zenith is expected in terms of the pilot watch—that helped a lot after the final word came from the end client anyway.
DA: The El Primero movement is iconic. How challenging is it for you to innovate and present fresh creations with this legendary movement?
JT: The day you don’t innovate, the day you don’t bring new ideas, you’re starting to die. When I joined the company, I asked every employee to bring, each year, three new innovative ideas and initiatives. I want everyone to bring new ideas—from the marketing team, sales and even from the finance people. They have to bring me three new ideas per year. That keeps the brand’s engines running and pushes the dynamics of improving its perception from the outside because they see Zenith as a very modern and innovative brand.
Also, the El Primero is vital because it’s the heart of Zenith—and it became such a legendary movement that we are delighted and proud to have such an asset in our company. However, what we needed to do over the last few years was to work stronger on the brand itself and also on what the brand is all about. Once you have a strong movement like the legendary El Primero and a strong brand, you become a much stronger watch brand.