Marking 130 years of expertise, Berluti celebrates its unmatched mastery of leather craftsmanship with three iconic designs reimagined for today: the Démesure shoe, the Forestière jacket and the Périple bag
Few brands walk the line between tradition and reinvention quite like Berluti. Founded in Paris in 1895, the maison has grown from a one-man cobbler’s vision into a benchmark of leather artistry. It all began with a craftsman’s eye and a cabinetmaker’s hand. Alessandro Berluti, trained in woodworking, brought sculptural finesse to leather, creating seamless shoes that set a new standard. His leap of faith from Italy to France laid the foundation for a legacy that endures today.
Now celebrating its 130th anniversary, Berluti continues to champion its leather-making heritage while passing the torch to new generations. The Fall/Winter 2025 collection explores the idea of phylogeny—an evolutionary concept of branching lineage—as a metaphor for its evolving icons. At the heart of this season are three reimagined signatures: the Démesure shoe, the Forestière jacket and the Périple bag.
The Démesure Shoe
The story of the Démesure began on Alessandro Berluti’s journey to Paris, where he met a group of barefoot bohemians. Their free-spirited style sparked the idea for a simple shoe design, one made from folded leather, then laced through three holes. Once he arrived in Paris, Alessandro continued to refine this design while apprenticing under a local cobbler.
Unbeknownst to him, those early sketches would become the foundation of a family legacy. Berluti rose to prominence as a bespoke shoemaker known for sculptural silhouettes and technical finesse. In the early 20th century, the next generation continued the tradition, with Alessandro’s daughter Olga Berluti reviving her father’s vision under the Démesure name.
Over time, the collection has evolved with fresh interpretations, each carrying echoes of the original. The Mont Thabor design brings crisp angles and updated patina shades, while a new version of the Stellar sneaker blends features from the Parade and Alto lines. Crafted from soft Venezia calf leather, it highlights flexibility and comfort in a modern frame.
The Forestière Jacket
Berluti’s move into ready-to-wear began with the Forestière, originally created by Parisian tailor Arnys in 1947. The design was commissioned by revolutionary architect Le Corbusier, who wanted a garment that could transition from day to evening. Drawing from the shapes of hunting jackets and chore coats, it offered functionality without sacrificing elegance.
After acquiring Arnys in 2012, Berluti reinterpreted the Forestière with contemporary versatility. The new version retains the spirit of the original but comes in both short and long cuts, featuring clean lines that pair effortlessly with a wide range of materials and styles.
The Périple Bag
Nearly two decades ago, Berluti broadened its scope from footwear to leather goods. That expansion continues today with the introduction of the Périple bag in its Fall/Winter 2025 collection.
Crafted from full-grain Venezia Softy leather, the Périple is assembled from intricate panels that fit together like a puzzle. Its structure, inspired by the sole of a shoe, makes the bag naturally curve around the body when worn over the shoulder. Signature details—leaf-shaped chapes, edge binding, a side zip pocket and a wide U-shaped opening—complete the piece, adding expressive form to the design.
Looking ahead while staying grounded in tradition, Berluti proves that legacy is not static. Through the Démesure, the Forestière and the Périple, the house continues to shape designs that honor the past while embracing the present—elevating craft not as nostalgia, but as momentum.
Text Jessica Esther