From Calvin Klein to Moschino, even to popstar Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma fashion collab, here are 8 essential looks from New York Fashion Week that you’ll see everywhere this spring / summer.
A.Wang’s collaboration with Page Six features prints of real and fictional headlines executed all over the sweater and shorts and seen as patches on the rear of the coaches jacket. The New York Post‘s gossip column adds an appropriately referential touches to Wang’s signature laid-back style.
Is there an art movement more American than Pop? Raf Simons surely thought about pop culture for his latest Calvin Klein collection. With references including Andy Warhol prints of Dennis Hopper circa Easy Rider and a 1971 Sandra Brant, as well as cheerleaders’ pom-poms and horror movies. It’s clear that Simons’ approach is to mine broad-stroke aspects of American culture that contrasted between American Dream and American horror.
Coach’s creative director, Stuart Vevers, drew inspiration from creativity and optimism of New York with the work of Keith Haring, whose graffiti-style works left an indelible mark on the downtown scene in the early ’80s. His cartoonish characters were emblazoned on ’70s-style leather jackets and sweatshirts, cropped Western-influenced leather jacket paired with a matching pearl-snap cowboy shirt and Hawaiian shirts in darker colors.
Fenty x Puma
Rihanna has an insatiable appetite for danger, and her risk-taking swagger occupy everything she does, not least her sense of style and that shows in her collaboration with Puma. Her Fenty x Puma collection itself was hyper-athletic mash-up of surf, motocross, rock climbing and all things extreme sport. She’s doing a hell of a job throwing collection fresh with bright neon maillots and body-con beach cover-ups came with all the coolest trimmings, including industrial zippers, adjustable toggles, peekaboo lacing, and mesh overlay. This collection was a nice way to push the athleisure trend out of its current spandex comfort zone. And once again Rihanna managed to make athletica, one of the most widely mined concepts in current fashion, into a vibrant collection with a point of view that can hold its own.
The worlds of Helmut Lang and Shayne Oliver collided after he announcing Hood By Air’s official hiatus and taking up a designer residency position at Helmut Lang, and Shayne Oliver started his first collection for Helmut Lang with kink all over : asymmetric bras and daring peekaboo harnesses, rearless pants suspended from the waistband like garters, leather codpieces, and strappy BDSM gear. But Oliver’s penchant for deconstruction shone through in many of the pieces, providing the right balance to the overall collection. Oddly shaped bras and bustiers, open-seam trousers and daring displays of skin for both day and evening winked at a kinkier and more adventurous taste. The line boasts Oliver’s signature fetishistic aesthetic, reminding the audience of the new direction of the label.
For his new collection, Michael Kors brought laid-back beachy vibes to the city this summer. Worked in a palette of breezy pastels—the colors of the New York season—before graduating to navy, gray, and black; and in addition to the subtle tie-dying, he devised palm tree–shadow prints in the same breezy spirit. Kors’ approach to spring was all about making casual work for city life. All of the elements crossing easily from day into evening. He limited his men’s wear to that range, the urban-beachy attitude translated into flowy trenchcoats, roomy shorts, boxy blazers, and a head-turning double-breasted white tonal suit.
As Jeremy Scott revealed his latest Moschino collections, there was a sense of optimism and plainspoken American can-do on the catwalk. Premised his collections on the idea of a road trip from L.A. to Las Vegas, as a connoisseur of Americana, high and low; his re-imagining of the classic Route 66 road trip was materialized in cowboys and bikers that were sexed-up and turned out, their suits bedazzled and licked by hot-rod flames, their muscle-hugging trousers and biker jackets embellished with studs and snakeskin appliqué. Scott’s embrace of America’s cheese and sleaze, alongside its apple-pie iconography, came off as both patriotic and frank.
“Blade Runner” came to life courtesy of Raf Simons. The designer created his own version of the iconic film by taking over an alley in Chinatown, New York. The opening look — a slouchy black rubber trenchcoat paired with matching rain boots, gardening hat and see-through umbrella with glow-in-the-dark shaft — set the tone for the cinematic collection. There were models wearing clothes that, were neither menswear nor the other but more a disjunctive genderless anti-uniform. And there was a bit of new wave, punk attitude, but not aesthetically, more in the attitude like taking different kinds of things. Juxtapositions of different way taken out of context, it’s about cultures sliding together, Asian culture and the culture of the West coming together.
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