WOMAN AT THE HELM. After eight months without a designer, Italian men’s wear brand Brioni has finally announced Nina-Maria Nitsche as its new creative director
Under new a creative lead, how much will change from Brioni’s clean cut tailoring
As many of fashions key figures gathered in Florence to attend the Pitti Uomo men’s wear trade fair last week, Brioni’s new CEO Fabrizio Malverdi confirmed that they had hired Nina-Maria Nitsche as their new creative director and is said to be effective immediately. This will mark the first time a woman has ever taken creative lead at the Roman tailoring label, which since 2012 has been under French holding company Kering.
Unlike Brioni’s previous creative director, Justin O’Shea, who was a women’s retail executive who had no prior design experience, Nitsche’s long history as a fashion designer comes as a breath of fresh air to the brand. Having joined Maison Martin Margiela in 1989, she worked closely with the founding designer for 23 years before taking over as creative director of the brand in 2009. She went on to join Vetements in 2016 but left when the company relocated to Zurich from Paris earlier this year.
How much is Brioni willing to change under the new creative direction of Nina-Maria Nitsche?
Although Nitsche comes with great credentials, the choice of her as Brioni’s creative director is still considered unorthodox. Her previous experience saw her work under labels that were considered cutting-edge and progressive in their design aesthetic, whilst Brioni, by contrast, has always been seen as a brand for the boardroom establishment, where President Donald Trump has been noted to be a fan. How her creative street culture creative instinct will translate in her upcoming designs is yet to be seen.