Gender-bending tank-tops for men at backstage
DA MAN: Tiger of Sweden is well known for its slim suits. The collection, however, points out otherwise. Is this a hint of the future direction of the brand? More casual and relaxed?
Andreas Gran: I constantly think about a new way of wearing the suit. How do we make the suit for the modern way of living? Contrast is very important for me when designing. If you have a slim blazer, I think it looks much more interesting with wider pants. I have the same thought with the entire collection. We are known for slim suits, but let’s contrast that with something new that we are not known for.
DA MAN: Besides multiculturalism, we’ve also noticed other surprising combinations like the MA1 jacket on top of a blazer. That one look with the tank top, however, seems to have a bit of a gender-bending vibe to it. So, do you think that there’s still such a thing as a feminine and masculine cut?
Andreas Gran: Yes, I do in some way, but I don’t have any rules on how to use them. The male and female bodies are obviously different in terms of anatomy, but that doesn’t set any limitations for using classic menswear pieces for women and vice versa. I believe in contrasts here as well. Dressing should be about making you feel confident and happy. That’s the only rule that applies.
DA MAN: Looking at how the collection developed on the runway, with a black-and-white closing look, is this an expression that menswear is becoming more and more minimalist?
Andreas Gran: I would say that we go in both directions. We try to make the cuts cleaner and more minimalistic, but also make the fabrics and colors more expressive.
The finale look featuring a suit with short text wrapping the arm
DA MAN: Your spring/summer ’17 runway show took place in, quite appropriately, London, a city that celebrates multiculturalism. Can you tell us how this issue plays out in Sweden where the brand originally comes from?
Andreas Gran: For a long time, Sweden has been one of the most welcoming countries when it comes to helping people in need. This has had an impact on the entire society for a long time. Without that, we would be an isolated, remote country in the northernmost part of the world.
DA MAN: When you design a new collection, what do you usually start working on?
Andreas Gran: I usually start with a silhouette and then add fabrics and colors. At the end of the process the silhouette usually looks way different than what it was at the starting point. Designing a collection is a process and a journey. You start somewhere and then you end up somewhere completely different.
A roundup of distinctive patterns and cuts for the season
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