A new era has begun as Louis Vuitton following the appointment of Pharrell Williams as the maison’s new creative director for menswear
After a couple of seasons without a creative director in its men’s studio, Louis Vuitton has announced a new name to take the helm. Following collaborations with the maison during Marc Jacobs’ tenure in 2004 and 2008, Pharrell Williams assumes creative leadership for the brand’s men’s collection. For sure, Williams has shown the ability to reach the unforetold heights set by the late Virgil Abloh. With Williams’ profound love for fashion—as well as his involvement in many business ventures, including his eponymous and successful brand Billionaire Boys Club— he is the ideal figure to lead the house.
On that note, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection stands as a testament to Williams’ creative energy. Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in the French capital, was chosen as the stage to unveil this vivid and daring collection. The bridge held a sentimental meaning for the designer as it symbolizes the connection between Paris and Virginia, Williams’ cherished home state.
As for the inspiration behind the debut collection, Williams drew on his admiration for the sun. “When the sun shined on me for an opportunity like this, it changed my life across the board … I’m going to use it to do two things: one, to share all my learnings as a perpetual student, and two, to share my love and appreciation,” he explains.
Williams has also established new foundations for the collection to forge his legacy at Louis Vuitton. A good case in point is the LVERS emblem employed in graphics and embellishments throughout the collection. It not only reflects the maison’s core values, underlining its discernment and savoir-faire while also paying homage to the slogan of Williams’ home state: “Virginia is for Lovers.” The LVERS emblem is seamlessly woven into both macro and micro elements of the collection, becoming a symbolic nod to Williams’ roots and the Louis Vuitton’s ethos.
The second premise for the men’s collection is a new print called Damoflage—an amalgamation of Damier and camouflage. “I know the Monogram is historically a very dominant force within the house. I had the Bastille bag in Damier. I had shoes and boots in Damier, I saw it as an opportunity,” Williams commented. “I wanted to make a print that makes people say, ‘Okay, that’s P (Pharrell). And that’s Damier.’”
Created by American pixel artist ET Artist, the Damoflage pattern envisioned by Williams draws inspiration from 8-bit Atari graphics. This innovative creation merges the Damier’s chessboard setup with elements of camouflage. The Damouflage print appears in several iterations, from colored Damier to its application in grained leather and handembroidered pieces. It is also applied in three hues across accessories, workwear, indigo denim, pajama silhouettes and many others.
Williams, who has built quite a reputation for his contemporary approach to design, has transformed Louis Vuitton’s signature tailored silhouette into a modern dandy cut encrusted with pearls and crystals. Complementing this reimagined cut are artworks made by American artist Henry Taylor, which are intricately featured as micro embroideries on tailoring, denim and accessories.
In the accessories realm, Williams highlights the revamped Speedy bag, which now comes in a spectrum of new colorways. “The Speedy was always a men’s canvas bag until they made a smaller version for Audrey Hepburn in 1965. I wanted to take something I felt would be unisex and just make a great bag for humans. I want to come in on a bag level and make a splash. Primary colors are where you start,” Williams elaborates. This bag debuted in vibrant hues including bright red, yellow, blue, green and other appealing tones. Additionally, it offers versatility in three sizes: There’s the Speedy 50, Speedy 40 and Speedy 25. As an exclusive addition to his inaugural collection, Williams has designed Louis Vuitton’s most exceptional and priciest crocodile bag ever produced, called quite appropriately the Millionaires Speedy 40.
Furthermore, Louis Vuitton’s iconic Trunk also debuted in the new Monogram Copper. Alongside it, the Alma, Allover and Epi designs flaunt vibrant and lively tones, completing the collection’s casually chic aesthetic. To complete the ensemble, William’s debut collection includes chic eyewear called Super Zoom sunglasses. Inspired by camera lenses, these sunglasses offer wearers a unique perspective with their primary color-tinted lenses. As someone who just made an entrance at the big fashion house, Williams deserves applause for his stunning creations.
TEXT Jessica Esther