FENDI FUN HOUSE. Unlike Fendi, not many maisons would admit that fashion is fun. The brand founder’s granddaughter professes her admiration for past artists and intellects
Fashion is a fickle subject. Trends come and go; a brands’ signature can change season after season. Of course, constant reinvention is exactly what makes up the backbone of the industry. This is certainly nothing new for Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of Eduardo and Adele Fendi, founders of the famed Italian house known for furs and, more recently, “it” bags. As a matter of fact, it was Silvia who came up with probably the most recognizable “it” bag for ladies in the late 1990s and 2000s: the Baguette bag. Then, she pushed forward with the Monster bag and, last year, the FendiFaces bag for men. While fashion keeps changing, it seems that Silvia really knows how to ride that unpredictable wave of change.
A light jacket made of terrycloth; a colorful jacket with cutout sneakers
All that, however, might not become immediately clear when you look at Fendi men’s spring/summer 2017 show. There was a pool in the middle of the catwalk, and the collection showed a lot of artistic interpretations that gave a new lease on life to the fun-looking FendiFaces. It was also quirky and artsy, with Albert Einstein and Pablo Picasso as just two of the collection’s many inspirations.
A light jacket made of terrycloth; a colorful jacket with cutout sneakers
Fur, which has been the brand’s forte, also underwent a new transformation. To recreate fur in a way that would be apt for summer, Silvia shrewdly used terrycloth—a material primarily used for towels—for a new range of light jackets and other essentials for men. It is that notion of luxury “imitation” that appears as a leitmotif connecting Fendi’s icons through the years, from the Baguette bag which obviously resembles an actual baguette to the Monster and FendiFaces that take after their real-life counterparts.
Unique cutout laced shoes
And then there’s one final inimitable ingredient to their recipe for success: Silvia’s fun personality along with her penchant to cheekily poke at men’s fashion and bring out that Italian flamboyance in all of us.
The incorporation of leather and various patterns in clothing details and accessories
DA MAN: What inspired Fendi men’s spring/summer ’17 collection?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: The collection is really inspired by summertime and by the sun. I would call this collection sun and fun. That is why I decided to have the models walk by a pool [for the runway show].
The incorporation of leather and various patterns in clothing details and accessories
DA MAN: Comfort and snugness seemed to be the highlights the fall/winter 2016 collection. What about the spring/summer ’17 collection?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: This collection is about enjoying life and simple pleasures like being by the pool and smelling the fresh air with your feet on the grass. It is about the sun and also keeping a fun element in the collection.
DA MAN: Figures like Salvador Dalí and David Hockney were said to inspire the collection. How did you select the artists?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: I was also very much inspired by people that have been breaking the rules of the conventional way of dressing, like Pablo Picasso or Salvador Dalì—artists that have been dressing with very personal clothes. That’s why I called an artist to work on our iconic stripes, the Pequin, that was so popular in the ’80s and ’90s for our travel line. We did beautiful watercolor on our Pequin stripes.
The incorporation of leather and various patterns in clothing details and accessories
DA MAN: Terrycloth appeared to be a unique element in the collection. In what way was the fabric incorporated into the designs?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: The collection is made of simple clothes with very light and fluid fabrics to give off an easygoing attitude. The flowing, washed silks and viscose are used to really stress this concept of freedom. Terrycloth is used profusely: [it’s] a plush indulgence, like summer fur.
A roundup of bags of the season
DA MAN: You’re known particularly for your “it” bag creations. Which bags from the collection do you think will become big hits?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: Each of the bags is very distinctive and fits different personalities. The unmistakable Fendi backpacks were inspired by a photo of Albert Einstein lying carefree on the beach, barelegged and in sandals. In keeping with that relaxed vibe, the backpack also retains a functional aspect—well-padded and large enough to comfortably fit a laptop with dedicated pockets for smartphones for the man on the go.
The bags with faces were designed with the independent and sophisticated man in mind. He has his own opinion and vision. The faces were designed by John Booth, a young illustrator and textile designer. Together, the Picasso-esque face was born with an exuberant colorful creation that can be seen all over the Fendi bags.
Finally, the Classic Peekaboo now comes in a smaller size—perfect for the sophisticated businessman on the go. It is also made from the Selleria bag model, and is a highly practical and stylish bag that is fully functional, dedicated to holding belongings while retaining a stylish edge for the modern man.
A roundup of bags of the season
DA MAN: The footwear pieces are also quite interesting. Some resemble women’s shoes with laces tied to the ankles. What was the idea behind them?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: The Fendi man is essentially a traveler. The cutout sneakers with ankle strings, pool slides and shoes made of a special mesh are all perfect for avid modern travelers.
DA MAN: Do you think the distinction between masculinity and femininity still plays a role in men’s fashion design today?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: Gender fluidity is wonderful. It’s restrictive to specify that something is for men or women—a shirt is a shirt. I like the lack of clear definitions, and the way that the unisex approach reflects the spirit of the time. It’s nice to break down barriers, completely free from classifications. I have to thank my mother because she never dressed me in pink when I was little and that helped me to have an open mind.
A roundup of bags of the season
DA MAN: In your own words, how would you describe the style and personality of the “Fendi man” that suits this spring/summer 2017 collection?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: The Fendi man perfectly reflects and respects the DNA of our maison. We have always been innovators of tradition. We innovate without striving too hard to be on-trend and “cool.” Our men are sophisticated and they can count on marvelous materials and cutting-edge techniques. They are free, eclectic spirits who are open-minded but exacting. It is a complex collection to create because you need to get the balance right, without straying too far in any direction. It includes what I would call “everyday normality,” but in an extreme form.
A roundup of bags of the season
DA MAN: As the third generation successor of the brand, what do you think is the ultimate secret of Fendi’s style success?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: Contrasts are important. Once you understand an idea, it loses its magnetism. I’m convinced that all-embracing generosity is a central characteristic to our brand. Sometimes we wonder whether we should save an idea for the next season, but we always decide, “Why save?” And also, our sense of irony is very important, as we never take ourselves too seriously.
DA MAN: What’s one fashion quote that you always carry with you after all these years?
Silvia Venturini Fendi: Our motto: “Nothing is impossible.”
The show’s finale