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Michel Navas shares about La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s high-end watchmaking journey and the magic underlying its timepieces
<figure id="attachment_94542" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94542" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-94542" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Michel-Navas-edit.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="844" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Michel-Navas-edit.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Michel-Navas-edit-227x300.jpg 227w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Michel-Navas-edit-315x415.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94542" class="wp-caption-text">Michel Navas</figcaption></figure>
Louis Vuitton began its horological journey in 2002 with the iconic Tambour, which arguably became one of the most recognizable watches of the 21st century thanks to its unique shape. The French Maison then prepared to compete with the industry’s giants with the acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps, a Swiss high-end watch movement specialist manufacturer, back in 2011. The integration of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking manufacture in the state-of-the-art workshop in Switzerland was completed in 2014.
Since then, the maison has grown by leaps and bounds in its quest for the highest level of craftsmanship, innovation and creativity in the realm of high-end watchmaking. As testament to Louis Vuitton’s mastery of haute horlogerie, in 2021 the Tambour Street Diver and Tambour Carpe Diem models won the “Diver’s Watch Prize” and the “Audacity Prize” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—the socalled “Oscars of Watchmaking.”
This year, Louis Vuitton introduced its first in-house self-winding automaton movement in a new feminine timepiece, the Tambour Fiery Heart Automata and the Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève. On top of that, the brand announced the revival of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, which will be run as an independent brand with guidance from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton.
<figure id="attachment_94538" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94538" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-94538 size-full" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/gerald-genta-visuel-hd.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="360" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/gerald-genta-visuel-hd.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/gerald-genta-visuel-hd-300x169.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/gerald-genta-visuel-hd-315x177.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94538" class="wp-caption-text">A pair of Gérald Genta’s Grande Sonnerie watches</figcaption></figure>
At 21-years young, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton has shown itself as a true powerhouse. And to learn more about the manufacturer’s latest endeavors and successes, DA MAN Caliber once again
DAMAN: Can you give us some insight into the highlights of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking ventures throughout the past year? 
Michel Navas: Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development for Watches at Louis Vuitton, told me what he has in mind to make something different. He wants to bring Louis Vuitton to the pinnacle of high watchmaking. It’s a daring decision to go straight to high watchmaking, but I agree with him. That’s all I can share right now.
DAMAN: Speaking about high watchmaking, are there any complications that you haven’t created before that you want to put out in the next collection? 
MN: It’s not so difficult to make complicated watches because you start with a base of movement, a strong movement. And after that, you can add a perpetual calendar, you can add a minute repeater, a chronograph, a split-seconds chronograph or a moon phase. I can do that. We can do that. Don’t get me wrong, but making a simple watch is what’s most difficult for me. A nice, beautiful, brilliant, simple watch you can wear daily is difficult to make.
However, we have the dream team to make what we want. If you want a special watch, we can do it for you.
<figure id="attachment_94540" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94540" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-94540" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_Still_Life.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="370" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_Still_Life.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_Still_Life-300x173.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_Still_Life-315x182.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94540" class="wp-caption-text">The Tambour Fiery Heart Automata</figcaption></figure>
DAMAN: On that note, are there any limitations or boundaries you won’t cross? 
MN: The unique rule for me is that I want the watch to be easy to read and use, even if it’s very complicated for the watchmaker to assemble, develop and make. It must be easy to read and easy to use. Of course, the main rule is the reliability of the watch. This is my first rule. A watch must run very well and be reliable. I have no boundaries if it’s reliable.
DAMAN: As the master watchmaker of Louis Vuitton, do you design the movement together with the overall aesthetic concept of the watch? 
MN: No, the idea comes from Enrico [Barbasini], me, my designers or you. Maybe you can give me an idea. And we have the marketing team in Paris as well. So, normally, each week, we have a meeting with them. They come to Geneva or vice versa, and we decide which idea to go ahead with. After that, we work closely with the designers and our research and development team. If we decide to go with an idea, the designer works with me and Enrico, and he starts to draw how we can display this new model and go ahead with it. Keep in mind that it takes time since there are many components. It’s interesting, but you have to be very patient.
<figure id="attachment_94539" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94539" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-94539 size-full" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_savoir-faire.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="860" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_savoir-faire.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_savoir-faire-223x300.jpg 223w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/LV_Tambour_Fiery_Heart_Automata_savoir-faire-315x423.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94539" class="wp-caption-text">The caliber LFT 325 automatic flying tourbillon automata movement</figcaption></figure>
DAMAN: When planning a new creation, how do you keep the balance between listening to the customer’s needs and the maison’s vision? 
MN: We are very young in the watch industry at only 21 years old. We started in 2002 and we are watchmakers, Enrico and I. And, of course, we are very attentive to the client. We want to know what they want and need on the wrist—and we can offer something you cannot find. That’s why our high watchmaking is quite different, like displaying time with cubes and with Spin Time. We offer something different but with the utmost respect for high watchmaking.
DAMAN: Which specific model, in your opinion, best represents the maison’s watchmaking direction today? 
MN: For me, personally, I love the minute repeater in the Voyager shape. I love it because it’s a Louis Vuitton watch, with the design of Louis Vuitton. But inside, there’s the minute repeater and it’s very comfortable on the wrists; smooth and thin.
<figure id="attachment_94543" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94543" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-94543" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/DR_VIEW_PRESENTATION_01.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="640" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/DR_VIEW_PRESENTATION_01.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/DR_VIEW_PRESENTATION_01-300x300.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/DR_VIEW_PRESENTATION_01-150x150.jpg 150w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/DR_VIEW_PRESENTATION_01-315x315.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94543" class="wp-caption-text">The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription</figcaption></figure>
DAMAN: Louis Vuitton launched the Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève earlier this year. The watch has the Geneva Seal and is crafted from single blocks of synthetic sapphire. And it also comes in fluorescent green or yellow cases. What were the main technical obstacles in fulfilling this creative endeavor? 
MN: One of the biggest challenges is to obtain these colors. Aside from that, we have the Geneva Seal. And, of course, you can also personalize this watch. So, instead of the Louis Vuitton logo, it can have your initials, logo or crest. It’s the first time the Geneva Seal office has agreed to a customizable watch because your initials or logo will be in the register of the Geneva Seal office. It was a big challenge for us; there was a lot of work for the case and a lot of work for the movement.
DAMAN: LVMH has announced the revival of Daniel Roth as an independent brand with guidance from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton. What’s the story behind this development? 
MN: I was talking with Jean Arnault and Daniel Roth was first placed under Bvlgari, as you may know. We thought we could not let Daniel Roth sleep as a brand. So, we decided to acquire Daniel Roth and revive the brand. But the philosophy is not to forget Mr. Daniel Roth because he’s alive. We visited him four times and told him that we wanted to revive his brand and he was very happy about it. As watchmakers, we have the same job, the same profession. Enrico, Jean and I revived the brand and we respected the DNA of Mr. Roth with the first model, the Tourbillon Souscription, that takes after the 1988 original. We have a lot of respect for Mr. Roth and even include Mr. Roth in our strategy.
<figure id="attachment_94541" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-94541" style="width: 640px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="wp-image-94541 size-full" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/TAMBOUR-MOON-FLYING-TOURBILLON-POINCON-DE-GENEVE-3.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="479" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/TAMBOUR-MOON-FLYING-TOURBILLON-POINCON-DE-GENEVE-3.jpg 640w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/TAMBOUR-MOON-FLYING-TOURBILLON-POINCON-DE-GENEVE-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/TAMBOUR-MOON-FLYING-TOURBILLON-POINCON-DE-GENEVE-3-315x236.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-94541" class="wp-caption-text">Two of Louis Vuitton’s latest Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire models</figcaption></figure>
DAMAN: Moving forward, how do you plan to separate or differentiate the development of the Daniel Roth and Louis Vuitton sides within La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton? How will you ensure that they remain distinct from each other? 
MN: The main role of La Fabrique Du Temps is Louis Vuitton. However, we have a part of La Fabrique Du Temps and a special team dedicated to Daniel Roth. We have skills and different know-how from different sources at the manufacture, so we can use this source to revive the Daniel Roth brand. We decided to take two engineers, two watchmakers, Enrico and me, and the guy in charge of supplying components
DAMAN: Finally, what is your vision for Daniel Roth as a watch brand? 
MN: Our vision for Daniel Roth is to respect the brand’s history while leveraging some of the concepts and savoir-faire that Enrico and I have accumulated in our careers.

In conversation with Michel Navas about Louis Vuitton’s horological endeavors