For the house’s latest ready-to-wear collection, Matthew M. Wiliams strived for balance by applying the sensibilities of the haute couture atelier to the extraordinary while making the formal feasible for everyday
Matthew M. Williams, Givenchy’s creative director, once again brought his signature nexus of luxury and utility to the fore for both men and women in his latest fall/winter collection. Silhouettes are equally easeful and monumental, ornamental and practical, layered and direct.
“I really wanted to create a synthesis of powerful, sophisticated femininity, with an interplay of multiple American and Parisian influences, sports and craftsmanship. Next to her stands a contemporary man with an instinct for chic nonchalance. On the runway, both are grounded by a sense of reality,” Williams stated.
Rendered largely in practical palette of rich browns, greens, greys and blacks, the collection plays with tailoring for eye-catching silhouettes for layered volumes and textures accented hand-embroidered detailing. While washed jersey is experimented with in the form of graphics and 4D print embroidery. The established sensibility of Givenchy is respected through structured single- and double-breasted forms coming in lighter wools and flannels. A particular focus is brough to bottoms with tailored trousers paired with voluminous overcoats and denim styles that contrast satins expressing varying lengths with intricate ruffles, hand-smocking and pleats.
Hubert de Givenchy’s haute couture archive is reference through hardware that takes on the form of jewellery and pearls. Other archival tributes feature a reworked ocelot print from 1955, over-dyed and applied to masculine outerwear in its present incarnation. The leather elements found throughout the collection are continued on the signature Givenchy stretch boots, New Hobo, Kenny and 4G bags marked by the signature Lock hardware and updated forms.
Meanwhile, the TK 360 sneaker, with its revolutionary totally knitted form, continues and informs all with its easily worn and evolutionary, growing, changing and wearing sensibility. This season, the TK 360 sneaker takes on more graphic lines, giving it a sportier attitude.
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