SCENT OF A GEM. Follow the journey to discover the story behind the inspiration of the fragrances of Bulgari’s Le Gemme Homme collection
The Le Gemme obelisk inspired bottle lineup (left to right: Gyan, Tygar, Onekh, Malakeos, Ambero, Garanat)
Never one to take the usual route to launch a new product (in this case six new fragrances dedicated to men), Bulgari invited VIP guests on a trip aboard the Orient Express, from the capital of the Czech Republic all the way to Venice, Italy.
Although entertaining, the iconic train ride through the European Alps was not without reason. The route actually tied in two elements of the new collection. It began in Prague, the ancient home of Bohemia’s gemstone production, while the final destination in Italy is the home of the watch and jewelry house itself.
The event started with a lunch at Lobkowicz Palace, hosted by Prince William Lobkowicz along with Valeria Manini, managing director of Bulgari Fragrance Business, and Jacques Cavallier, the renowned nose behind the six distinctive scents. Upon entering the venue, the invitees were introduced to the different gemstones topping each bottle. During the luncheon, Valeria not only explained about the different fragrances but also the exclusivity of the Le Gemme line of perfume, as it will only be available in specially selected outlets.
Exterior of the palace
Back to the aforementioned gemstones, each was selected by Bulgari and was reimagined into aromatic form with the help of Jacques Cavallier. The fragrances personify a specific element of the selected gem and the different aromas that appeal to men. The Le Gemme line eventually comprised six individual scents:
1. Ambero: The translucency and luminosity of amber is translated into a warm, woody oriental richness and sensual aroma, thanks to the earthy tones of the vetiver root which is spiced up with scents of ginger, pink pepper and saffron. It is further refined with the elegant notes of Olibanum incense.
2. Garanat: The bold red garnet on the cap of this perfume bottle come from the Bosphorus strait. Although this crimson gemstone depicts masculinity, the scent used to iterate the stone is that of rose. Although it may seem feminine, the smoky scent of incense still gives it an aroma of manliness.
3. Gyan: The sapphire has been chosen to encapsulate this scent, and the celestial blue mystery of the stone is expressed by the aromas of sambac jasmine combined with Patchouli from Indonesia, mingled with oriental incense.
Gemstones that inspired the scents
4. Malakeos: The exotic green motive of malachite is said to resemble that of a forest. And to capture this image in a perfume, Jacques uses a common ingredient, fougère. The clean and refreshing aromas of fougère is then combined with the 0cooling scents of minty geranium, lavender, and oakmoss to create a sensual green fragrance.
5. Onekh: The black onyx is depicted in aromatic form by utilizing the malacensis oud from Laos, a highly prized ingredient said to be as valuable as gold. This natural oud yields a leathery aroma which is transformed into a dry yet sensually addictive scent when paired with labdanum and resin.
6. Tygar: Simply put, the tiger eye stone is a yellow gem with swirling lines that resembles a tiger’s eye. When polished, it can shine as bright as gold. To illustrate the aroma of this stone, the zesty notes of grapefruit is combined with aromas of deep wood ambrox and ambergris to create an aroma that conveys fiery courage.
Dining venue at the Lobkowicz Palace
The launch event then continued with a ’20s-themed party on the Orient Express itself. On board, guests were entertained by live music, a casino and models exuding the heady scents of the new Bulgari Le Gemme Men line of perfume.
HE Prince William Lobkowicz and Stephane Gersche
Following the success of Le Gemme Femme, with its alluring bottles, it was only natural that Bulgari would want to follow it up with a line for men. Valeria explained that, unlike other brands, which tended to announce the launch of single perfumes, Bulgari decided to boldly launch six new scents in one go. She explained that the line’s limited availability and its highly-specific market was what gave Bulgari the freedom to do so. Naturally, this exclusivity makes the collection all the more desirable among fans of the brand as well as perfume aficionados.
“Today, men have already made perfume a part of grooming and more than that, the fragrance they choose is meant to be a statement of who they are, or wish to be. It was important to have a collection of fragrances, to touch the different personalities and moods of men. Each gemstone in the Le Gemme collection is meant to represent various aspects of a man’s personality and the fragrance of a certain perfume can enhance certain moods related to that specific scent. That is one of the main reasons behind the six different fragrances in this collection,” explained Manini.
She went on to state, “By creating a much more intimate connection to the personality of men and giving them a variety of choice, this offers a class of high-end luxury, never before offered by other fragrance brands.”
In selecting the gemstones for the collection and helping Cavallier create the right fragrance for each one, Manini said, “In choosing the stones to be used for Le Gemme Men, we had to look to the past to see what precious stones former men of power used to symbolize their strength or masculinity. For example, malachite was a stone admired by the Russian Tsar, and blue sapphire was often adorned by wealthy tradesmen from the Middle East.”
To create the six different fragrances for the Le Gemme collection, Cavallier stated that he didn’t specifically focus on a certain type of man, but chose aromas that would speak to masculinity in general. He stated that “in creating the ideal fragrance for men, it should have the right balance of freshness, spice and woodiness, to make it masculine, yet avoid making it smell too cliché.”
The secret of the Le Gemme collection, however, was not only due to its rarity. As Jacques “The Nose” Cavallier explained, the ingredients used in the making of these perfumes were also quite different from your typical perfume. Instead of relying on synthetic aromas, the line used a higher proportion of natural essential oils. Not only does this create a much more natural aroma, but it also makes each perfume last longer. This concentration of essential oils, the extraction process and the expertise required to combine them properly are the main reasons behind the Le Gemme collection’s hefty price tag.
Jacques Cavallier and Valeria Manini
The two-day launch event finally came to an end when the Orient Express arrived at Bulgari’s hometown in Italy. Besides the memories of an exhilarating trip on this railway legend, one stepped off the train with a better understanding of perfume creation. More importantly, it’s easy to understand how one man’s passion to create a scent can turn an already remarkable object into an unforgettable scent that would forever be associated with masculine sensuality.
The Le Gemme showcase inside the Orient Express