Conceived in Japan but cultivated in Paris, Kenzo mixes both influences for its spring/summer 2024 collection
The bridges in Paris were having their major moments this fashion week, from the Pont Neuf bridge for Louis Vuitton to Passerelle Debilly, which Kenzo’s creative director Nigo has chosen for his show. With the Eiffel Tower in the background and La Seine underneath, the venue played a significant part in reminding us about Kenzo’s birth city. Then take into account Nigo’s Japanese influence and we get a collection rich in these two cultures for Kenzo.
To showcase his ideas, Nigo navigated his interest in Japanese culture by collaborating with Japanese graphic artist Verdy and delving into the country’s pop music movement that emerged in the ’80s. Nigo re-contextualized this style with Japanese tailoring techniques. As seen in some looks, kimonos were reconstructed with lapelled collars. Men’s hakama also made an appearance, both as as is or as an element of more comprehensive looks.
Another primary catcher from the show was the jorts (jean shorts) – an extension of a fall 2023 trend – which Nigo accentuated with extra pockets. The jorts also came in various fabrics, including denim and leather. Moreover, Nigo’s love for flowers still flourished in the recent collection. Of particular note was a denim shirt with floral motifs that formed a subtle yet striking harmony with the fabric.
Fusing Parisian elements into the collection, Nigo emblazoned some pieces with the Kenzo Paris branding, recreated by Verdy. It starts with the micro prints on matching jackets and shirts, then continues on a kimono, which came in contrasting stitches, as well as the detailing on suits and accessories. Nigo himself even proudly wore the Kenzo Paris jacket to close the show.
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