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<h2>IN THE WORKS. Breitling soars to new heights with a leading research and development team called the Chronoworks. Vice president Jean-Paul Girardin tells the details</h2>
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<a href="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Jean-Paul-Girardi_001.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-44492" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Jean-Paul-Girardi_001.jpg" alt="" width="600" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Jean-Paul-Girardi_001.jpg 630w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Jean-Paul-Girardi_001-300x225.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Jean-Paul-Girardi_001-315x236.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 630px) 100vw, 630px" /></a> 
Jean-Paul Girardin
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Given the economic mood of today, any watch brand simply has to be both innovative and sensitive to the market. Not to forget, the ever-evolving <a href="http://daman.co.id/?s=smartwatches">smartwatches</a> loom as competitors that might, sooner or later, make a lasting impact on the luxury watch business.
While <a href="http://daman.co.id/?s=Breitling">Breitling</a> did keep up with the competition by launching their own connected watch last year—the Exospace B55 Connected—the aviation-inspired brand has certainly been busy with even more breakthroughs. All of those are, of course, done in a Breitling way. Case in point: the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks.
At a glance, the black-on-black watch serves as a handsomely modern and minimalistic reinterpretation of a classic Breitling timepiece. But admire the details up close and, chances are, you’d be totally impressed by the salient new updates. From the unique rubber bracelet to the significantly improved watch movement, no stone was left unturned by the Swiss watchmaking house. Then again, the overall look of the watch avoids being over the top, and thus appeals to those who want only accurate tickers on their wrists to help attain their professional needs.The right man to talk to about this particular masterpiece is none other than <a href="http://daman.co.id/?s=Jean-Paul-Girardin">Jean-Paul Girardin</a>, Breitling’s passionate vice president and head of product development who is also a pilot himself. While he’s not afraid to tackle technical details during the conversation—covering just about everything about the new Superocean Heritage Chronoworks timepiece—his main message is quite simple. Although luxury watches are abundant in the market, Breitling’s timepieces are truly made by and for professionals, and that makes all the difference.
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Go to the next page to start reading the exclusive interview.

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<a href="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Superocean-Héritage-Chronoworks_01.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-44493" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Superocean-Héritage-Chronoworks_01.jpg" alt="" width="600" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Superocean-Héritage-Chronoworks_01.jpg 630w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Superocean-Héritage-Chronoworks_01-300x225.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Superocean-Héritage-Chronoworks_01-315x236.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 630px) 100vw, 630px" /></a> 
The Superocean Héritage Chronoworks
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DA MAN: One of the most exciting news about Breitling is the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks piece. What is it, actually? 
 Jean-Paul Girardin: The Chronoworks is, indeed, one of the novelties presented this year, and it’s not a concept watch. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch stands for very special innovations in terms of movement. This is the first piece from the dedicated Chronoworks team that we assembled two years ago to study how Breitling could improve the performance of the in-house movement caliber B01. So, we looked at everything; we revisited every aspect; and we found five different points where we could improve the efficiency of the movement. It’s a little bit like a Formula One racing team, where they are constantly trying out new solutions using advanced technology, which are to be introduced to other series in the future.
DA: So, what are those points? 
 JPG: The first thing we identified is that the B01 is losing a little bit of energy due to friction on the rubies in the baseplate and on the gear train bridge. To counter that, the team developed a special type of ceramic that has a very low friction potential. If you feel it, it’s like soap, very smooth but hard enough to replace the jewels. As a result, we have eleven jewels less in the Chronoworks movement.
The main plate and the gear train bridge are also not made of brass anymore, but of ceramic, too. The type of the ceramic is boron nitrite (BN). For the bridge and the main plate, we can then directly remove the jewels, and they now work without oiling.
Another thing that we discovered was that at a frequency of 4Hz, a movement stops and restarts super-fast. So, the moving part has to be as light as possible to improve efficiency. That’s why all the wheel trains have been replaced with silicon in order to drastically reduce the weight, because silicon is 50 percent lighter than the standard alloy used in such wheels.
At the same time, we are using silicon not only due to its weight, but also due to the manufacturing process, as we can create very complex shapes with it. So, we made new designs for the anchor escapement to reduce energy loss in the movement.

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<a href="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/breitling_chronometrie.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-44495" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/breitling_chronometrie.jpg" alt="" width="600" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/breitling_chronometrie.jpg 630w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/breitling_chronometrie-300x200.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/breitling_chronometrie-315x211.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 630px) 100vw, 630px" /></a> 
The Breitling Chronometrie manufacture
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DA: How effective were these changes in upping the watch’s performance? 
 JPG: Well, these are not all of them. We also took care of the balance wheel, which now uses nickel. And, in fact, the fifth innovation we’re introducing in the Chronoworks movement is specific to chronographs. Without going into the details, basically we normally lose energy from the power reserve when activating the chronograph due to friction. So, we adjusted it by removing the friction spring and using a nickel wheel instead. This means that the watch will have the same power reserve regardless of the chronograph being on or off. It’s quite an improvement.
All in all, the Chronoworks’ B01 movement has shown a 45-percent improvement in terms of performance. We have successfully elevated the power reserve from 70 hours to 100 hours. So, we’re wasting less energy, but still making the movement in the same size or volume. This is the aim of the Chronoworks team. And the watch is called the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks, limited to 100 pieces. The case, by the way, is ceramic, too, but zircon ceramic—not BN.
DA: It seems that Breitling is becoming more and aggressive in developing in-house movements. 
 JPG: When we started the project to conceive, develop and industrialize our own in-house mechanical chronograph movements in 2004, we really wanted to be ready in 2009 with a reliable product. That’s why failure was not an option. We were seriously learning watchmaking, and we didn’t want to innovate just for the sake of innovation. We gained experience in terms of material, surface treatment, energy loss, and that’s why we grouped our best chemists (for material development), mathematicians, designers and watchmakers into the Chronoworks team that’s dedicated to innovation.
DA: Is the Chronoworks team also responsible for the Breitlight material? 
 JPG: They’re specialists in the “super-engines” of the movements, so to speak. We have yet another team that has developed the Breitlight material for the Avenger Hurricane piece and is working on different materials for watchcases and straps, too.

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<a href="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-44494" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01.jpg" alt="" width="600" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01.jpg 630w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01-150x150.jpg 150w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01-297x300.jpg 297w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Bentley-GMT-B04-S-Carbon-Body_01-315x318.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 630px) 100vw, 630px" /></a> 
The Bentley GMT B04 S Carbon Body
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DA: What about the <a href="http://daman.co.id/breitling-launches-a-connected-watch-for-bentley/">Breitling for Bentley</a> pieces? 
 JPG: For the first time, we’re introducing carbon fiber for the case of a Breitling for Bentley timepiece, which is the Bentley GMT B04 S Carbon Body. It’s not forged carbon, mind you. That’s why it’s got an interesting texture. Again, we’re trying to combine both functionality and pleasing aesthetics.
DA: There is a rising trend of launching smaller cases. What about Breitling? 
 JPG: For us, we have a limit in terms of dial legibility. We notice that chronographs smaller than 38mm are no longer legible. So, 38mm is the smallest chronograph watchcase we have.
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<a href="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cf014921.jpg"><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-44497" src="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cf014921.jpg" alt="" width="600" srcset="https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cf014921.jpg 630w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cf014921-300x225.jpg 300w, https://backend.daman.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/cf014921-315x237.jpg 315w" sizes="(max-width: 630px) 100vw, 630px" /></a> 
Production of Breitling watchcases
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DA: Are the new materials developed for the watchcase and movement parts sort of an answer to the rise of smartwatches? What about Breitling’s own Exospace B55? Are there any new follow-ups for it? 
 JPG: I wouldn’t say it’s an answer; I would say it’s more in the spirit of continuing to innovate in different directions. For Breitling, innovation and tradition are not paradoxical to each other, but it’s exactly the opposite: Innovation is a tradition for Breitling.
We presented the Exospace B55 Connected Chronograph at last year’s Baselworld to gather comments during the fair. By the end of that week, we finalized the technical specifications of the product and we did exactly what we said, which was launching the product at the end of the year. It was unveiled last December in New York. We started selling the watch this year, and that’s Breitling’s first connected watch. It uses connectivity in Breitling’s way to improve its functionality. In essence, we are really using the user-friendliness of a smartphone to improve the functionality of a watch. Of course, we’re now thinking of new development in terms of adding sensors or GPS receivers, so we will continue to innovate in that direction.
I myself am wearing the Breitling Exospace B55 Connected, and I think it’s such a convenient watch to wear. So, I just wear one watch now, when I go out, jogging, on business or vacation, or if I don’t want to be disturbed like now—I have my smartphone on silent mode, but I’d know if somebody’s calling me, because I’ll have the message pop up on the watch. Again, it’s the same Breitling way to innovate in the direction of creating instruments for professionals.
DA: In that sense, how does the future look like for Breitling? 
 JPG: If you continue to build a brand through innovation while also remaining faithful to what made the brand successful in the past, you simply cannot go wrong.
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This article first appeared in DA MAN Caliber 2016. Get your copy <a href="http://daman.co.id/get-tablet-version/">here</a>.

DA MAN Caliber Exclusive: Breitling’s Vice President Jean-Paul Girardin Explains Chronoworks, the Brand’s Brilliant Innovation

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Jean-Paul Girardin