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Extreme Thinness Takes on New Weight as Bvlgari Turns to Platinum

Bvlgari redefines what an ultra-thin watch can be, transforming its record-breaking Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon into an even more exclusive expression through the enduring allure of platinum

Close-up of the dial
Close-up of the dial

Watches and Wonders Geneva has become the ideal stage for Bvlgari’s dual identity as both jeweler and watchmaker, where Roman creativity meets Swiss precision. Returning for its second consecutive year, the maison presented a booth inspired by kinetic art and refined tailoring, with an exhibition space defined by marble and other precious materials. Among the latest creations, one stood apart not through sheer spectacle but through the quiet confidence of its ambition: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum.

Limited to just 10 pieces and measuring an astonishing 1.85 mm in total thickness, it is the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon. Bvlgari first claimed that record with the titanium version in 2025, which went on to receive top honors at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). For 2026, the Roman jeweler takes the concept in a more luxurious direction, translating the same groundbreaking architecture into platinum. The result elevates the watch from an engineering marvel to an object of exceptional desirability.

The BVF 900 caliber
The BVF 900 caliber

The numbers alone tell only part of the story. This is not simply a thinner watch but an entirely different expression of the idea. Where the titanium edition celebrated featherlight engineering, the platinum version embraces substance, presence and permanence. Both the case and bracelet are crafted entirely from the noble metal, giving the watch a richer, more exclusive character while preserving every aspect of its technical achievement. Distinctive blue accents enliven the skeletonized dial while alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes create a subtle play of light across the bracelet.

Powering this feat of miniaturization is the manual-winding BVF 900 caliber, which delivers a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Collectors will also appreciate the finer details, including a dedicated main plate finished with an original galvanic treatment, a steel ratchet wheel and the meticulous decorative finishing that has become a defining trait of the Octo Finissimo collection.

Caseback of the watch
Caseback of the watch

More than another technical milestone, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum reaffirms Bvlgari’s ability to unite record-breaking engineering with the prestige and complexity of platinum. Radical elegance and horological mastery converge in a single creation. In many respects, the choice of platinum also reflects continuity rather than change. Since its founding in 1884, Bvlgari has built its reputation on precious metals, while platinum has long held a place within its signed collections and one-of-a-kind high jewelry thanks to its durability and suitability for gem setting.

Side profile of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Side profile of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Even so, the Ultra models occupy a category of their own within the wider Octo Finissimo family. They share the collection’s architectural design language and forward-thinking philosophy, yet it is their engineering that truly distinguishes them. Fully functional, genuinely wearable and designed to endure, they go far beyond conceptual exercises. While this is hardly a watch intended for daily wear, it stands as compelling evidence that Bvlgari continues to expand the possibilities of contemporary watchmaking.

“Last year at Watches and Wonders, we already pushed the boundaries with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Today, with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum, the story continues and reaches a new chapter,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, President and CEO of Bvlgari.

Bvlgari’s record-breaking Octo Finissimo watches, including the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari’s record-breaking Octo Finissimo watches, including the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

In the end, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum thrives on contradiction. It pairs extraordinary mechanical complexity with one of watchmaking’s most coveted precious metals, giving new substance to a record defined by extraordinary thinness. It is another reminder that for Bvlgari, the pursuit of the impossible never reaches a finish line. It simply finds another expression.

Text Riga Ramadhan