From Bvlgari’s refined Octo Finissimo to Audemars Piguet and Swatch’s playful Royal Pop, six standout watches reveal where contemporary horology is headed
Color Revolution
In one of the year’s most unexpected collaborations, Audemars Piguet and Swatch unite to launch the “Royal Pop” collection. The collaboration merges the legendary octagonal geometry of the 1972 Royal Oak with the playful spirit of the 1980s Swatch POP, transforming haute horlogerie into an exercise in wearable pop art. Breaking away from the traditional wristwatch format, the Royal Pop is presented as a lightweight Bioceramic pocket watch available in eight vibrant colorways. Details such as the textured tapisserie dial and calfskin lanyard reinforce the collection’s playful yet premium sensibility. Beneath the surface is Swatch’s SISTEM51 mechanical movement, bringing together accessibility, innovation and horological heritage in a distinctly unconventional form.
Dive Legacy
Independent Swiss watchmaker Squale revisits one of its defining dive-watch designs with the enduring 1521 collection. Originally developed in the 1960s under a production reference created by founder Charles Von Büren, the model remains a benchmark for functional underwater watchmaking. The latest generation stays closely aligned with its historic DNA, most notably through the signature crown positioned at four o’clock—a feature that has become synonymous with the collection. Available in more than 30 references spanning bronze, PVD and stainless-steel executions, the 42mm 316L steel platform continues to balance durability with understated elegance. Decades after its debut, the 1521 remains a compelling example of purposeful design refined through continuity rather than reinvention.
Streamlined Flight
BREITLING introduces a significant redesign of its Chronomat collection, refining one of its most versatile sports watches without compromising its aviation-inspired identity. Originally developed in 1983 for Italy’s Frecce Tricolori aerobatics team, the Chronomat now enters a sleeker and more integrated era. For the Chronomat B01 42, wearability has been substantially improved, with the case thickness reduced from 15.1mm to 13.77mm. The chronograph bezel has also been streamlined through a unified construction that integrates the bezel ring, insert, rider tabs and screws into a single element. Powered by the COSCcertified Manufacture Caliber 01 with a 70-hour power reserve, the latest Chronomat balances technical capability with sharper contemporary proportions.
Royal Heritage
TUDOR celebrates nearly a century of watchmaking history with the introduction of the new Monarch, a model that balances vintage-inspired elegance with contemporary technical refinement. Crafted in a sharply faceted 39mm steel case paired with a matching two-link bracelet, the watch presents a clean, confident silhouette. Its dark champagne-toned dial features applied hour markers alongside a small-seconds display positioned at 6 o’clock, reinforcing the collection’s understated sophistication. Beneath the dial sits the automatic Manufacture Calibre MT5662-2U, certified by both COSC and METAS as a Master Chronometer while offering a 65-hour power reserve. Finished with the brand’s micro-adjustable “T-fit” clasp, the Monarch merges everyday practicality with refined watchmaking credentials.
Refined Extremes
At Watches and Wonders Geneva, Bvlgari continues the evolution of its ultra-thin watchmaking with a more refined interpretation of the Octo Finissimo. Leading the release is a new 37mm Octo Finissimo that signals a notable shift away from the aggressively technical character of earlier generations toward greater balance, ergonomics and everyday wearability. Unlike the 40mm models that defined the collection over the past decade, the latest iteration emphasizes proportion without sacrificing mechanical sophistication. At its core is the newly developed in-house Calibre BVF 100, an automatic movement measuring just 2.35mm thick while still delivering an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The result is a watch that preserves the architectural sharpness and technical ambition of the Octo Finissimo while introducing a more versatile and understated presence on the wrist.
Architectural Drama
Franck Muller pushes architectural horology further with the Vanguard Aero Revolution 3 Skeleton, a dramatic expression of openworked watchmaking. Housed in an 18-carat rosegold tonneau case skeletonized on all four sides, the watch offers an uninterrupted view of its intricate mechanical construction. At the center sits the maison’s signature tri-axial tourbillon, rotating continuously to counter the effects of gravity while creating a hypnotic visual rhythm. Powering the watch is the manually wound in-house Calibre MVT FM 2031-VS, composed of 280 finely finished components and capable of delivering a remarkable 10-day power reserve. Equal parts engineering and sculpture, the timepiece reflects Franck Muller’s ongoing pursuit of highperformance avant-garde watchmaking.