Inspired by Dior’s deep-rooted connection to the American state of Texas, men’s artistic director Kim Jones bring the legacy to the runway, collaborating with Travis Scott on the Dior Summer 2022 Men’s collection
What started as a conversation between two friends, cultures and ideas, resulted in a collection that explores the identities of a groundbreaking modern musician and the heritage of Dior. The brand’s spring 2022 menswear show took place in a recreation of Christian Dior’s childhood Rose Garden, which evolves into a cactus garden reflecting Texan-born rapper Travis Scott’s upbringing in Houston. The Grand Canyon and the dusty deserts Dior admired are reflected in a sun-bleached-palette as well as hues of mauve, cafe, pistachio and pale blues. These, by the way, are hues present in Dior’s haute couture gowns. Furthermore, the Dior Toile de Jouy becomes a Toile de Cactus chine, depicting desert scenes, as the motifs of the original toile are translated to southache embroideries on suiting.
Reflecting the savoir-faire of the house, tailoring underpins the collection: Flaring softly below a high waist and narrow armhole, fluid trousers, and slim overcoats sketch an evolution of Dior’s 1956 “arrow” line. The tailleur oblique fastens high on the body, adding a touch of formality to contrast with sportswear elements, which are shown on the track pants with couture detailing, T-shirts washed to resemble tour merchandise, embellished with embroideries and hand-painted. Scott has reimagined the Dior logotype via a series of hand-drawn graphics, utilized as prints and embroidery. Other motifs, including the topography of Houston, the Cactus Jack character and imagery drawn from Dior’s archives become patches, trophies of imagery trips that adorn bags and leather souvenir jackets.
This time around, accessories become more specific as Dior’s monogram is audaciously toyed with. The Dior Oblique has been reworked to spell out “Jack” while a diamond monogram, originating in the maison’s archives from the 1960s , becomes a new graphic logo canvas. Elements are further drawn to invent a new-skate inspired Dior sneakers with sloped plateau sole, harking back to authentic 1990 antecedents. There is also monk-strapped sandals that underscores a mood of wanderlust. The men’s saddle bag is proposed in a double version, with study stirrup handle joining the two. In another reflection of duality, Stephen Jones hats become hybrids, fusing a French “Bob” hat with an American beanie.
For the first time, Kim Jones also collaborates with Dior Joaillerie Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane on a high-jewellery piece: A cactus necklace, blooming with precious gems, was made especially for the show. Exploring America through Dior’s eyes, the house also collaborates with contemporary artist George Condo, which resulted in a dialog between American pop sensibilities and European old master painting. Condo has created a sequence of hand-painted shirts, unique work that auctioned after the show, which proceeds to support future generations’ creative talent through scholarships.
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