Our man in NYC, accessories designer Rafe Totengco, sits down for a chat with a ‘designer to the stars’ whose creations are sported by such luminaries as Liam Gallagher, Shia LaBeouf and The Rolling Stones.
Can I tell you…about Andrew Buckler. I met Andrew at a party last year and was immediately drawn to his outfit. It had rock-star flair but with a totally relaxed attitude. Of course, later in the evening, I found out that he was a menswear designer…go figure. His personality totally translates to his clothes. They are detailed, versatile, roguish and relaxed. Andrew launched in 2001 with his original concept of “English bloke meets New York” and has stayed true to that aesthetic ever since.
He opened his first store in the Meatpacking District in 2005 and has opened three more locations in Soho, London and Toronto. He has an impressive list of guys wearing his clothes as well: Jeremy Renner, Robert Buckley, Liam Gallagher, Shia LaBeouf, The Rolling Stones, Franz Ferdinand, Keane, Snow Patrol and Chris Brown. I went to his fall 2010 runway show and loved it! Needless to say, I have a few things on order.
DA MAN: What made you launch your own collection?
Andrew Buckler: A major lack of interesting menswear that fit! I decided I needed to change that.
DA MAN: What differentiates your collection from other men’s designers?
Andrew Buckler: Attention to details and a lasting quality with a particular roguish design attitude.
DA MAN: Who is your target customer?
Andrew Buckler: He’s a reader and a creative guy, whether actually in his career or through his own interests or hobbies. Our guy is in his mid-30s and up, but it’s more about a certain style of a guy. We dress a lot of bands and things like that and we tend to get a bit creative
DA MAN: Do you think there’s been a significant shift in men’s attitudes toward making an effort to dress up?
Andrew Buckler: Absolutely, we have gone through a trend of denim thrift; we are now in a revival of design shape and clean lines.
DA MAN: What trends do you think are worth investing in for fall?
Andrew Buckler: Hoods on great outerwear pieces, whether on coats or sweaters.
DA MAN: What trends do you think men shouldn’t bother with?
Andrew Buckler: The basics … revitalize that wardrobe … No more recession-buying!
DA MAN: What are three items men should invest in for fall?
Andrew Buckler: Long rise pants with a low crotch, a heavy knit sweater and a tailored jacket … all from Buckler, of course!
DA MAN: What is your design philosophy?
Andrew Buckler: Fabrication and attention to detail, and being inspired by the world around us—whether it’s music or a new movie or a kid walking in the street.
DA MAN: Name five things you can’t live without.
DA MAN: List three to five style dos and don’ts.
Andrew Buckler: Layer your clothes, don’t be minimal, tuck your shirt in, don’t always have it hanging out, try tucking your pants into your boots, try shoes with no socks … silver jewelry is great, no to gold unless it’s white gold.
DA MAN: Music is often a huge source of inspiration for designers, who were you listening to this season?
Andrew Buckler: The Prodigy’s new album Omen.
DA MAN: Where do you draw your inspiration? Do you change every season or stay consistent?
Andrew Buckler: I always change … this fall season was the Bauhaus. It’s very relevant again, but I always create it for the Buckler guy.
DA MAN: What’s next for Andrew Buckler?
Andrew Buckler: We will be reopening our online store this fall along with a total rebuild of our website. It’s amazing how fast the Internet develops and changes so quickly and our old website is like a steam engine compared to the new one.
DA MAN: Who would you love to dress?
Andrew Buckler: I have been lucky to have dressed most people I wanted to … but maybe James McAvoy.
DA MAN: Who do you think is the most stylish man?
Andrew Buckler: I have so many in mind, but at the moment, I’d say Russell Brand. A well-dressed man needs humor, and he needs to be wearing Buckler, of course.
To see more from Andrew Buckler, go to andrewbuckler.com
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