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in this issue ASA BUTTERFIELD BY MITCHELL NGUYEN MCCORMACK

Your One-Stop Guide to Menswear Designer Shake-Ups of the Season

SHAKEUPS AND BREAKUPS. Following the fashion weeks earlier this year, designers went forward with their big moves. We’re keeping a tally of this season’s shakeups and breakups

 

 

1. BURBERRY

 

mr burberry collection
Josh Whitehouse for Mr. Burberry capsule collection

 

Christopher Bailey of Burberry is not only folding the brand’s three separate lines—Prorsum, Burberry Brit and Burberry London—into one, but will also immediately sell items right after the runway shows.

 

2. TOM FORD

 

tom ford
Male models wearing Tom Ford collection

 

Like Burberry, Tom Ford will also be doing the See-Now, Buy-Now business model. The brand is set to combine his men’s and women’s fall 2016 show into one, which will be held in September.

 


3. TOMMY HILFIGER

 

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Lucky Blue Smith for Tommy Jeans

 

Add Tommy Hilfiger to the list of designers merging its men’s and women’s runway shows. Tommy Hilfiger has also adopted the See-Now, Buy-Now method, making the brand’s collections available immediately for consumers.

 

4. PAUL SMITH

 

Paul Smith
Paul Smith and his models backstage

 

Paul Smith, meanwhile, is slimming down to two lines, Paul Smith and PS by Paul Smith.

 

5. BRIONI

 

Brioni Justin O’Shea
Justin O’Shea

 

Italian sartorial giant Brioni let go of creative director Brendan Mullane, and appointed Justin O’Shea, previously the fashion director of e-commerce website MyTheresa.com, as the replacement.

 

6. BERLUTI

 

Alessandro-Sartori_portrait-by-MILAN-VUKMIROVIC
Alessandro Sartori

 

Berluti followed suit by parting ways with Alessandro Sartori, who had been with the brand for five years.

 

7. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

 

stefano pilati ermenegildo zegna
Stefano Pilati

 

Designer Stefano Pilati exited Ermenegildo Zegna, and was succeeded by Alessandro Sartori, who had previously masterminded the Z Zegna line before he left the brand for Berluti.

 

8. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

 

ferragamo douglas booth
Douglas Booth in Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Massimiliano Giornetti announced his resignation from Salvatore Ferragamo in late March. As of now, the brand hasn’t chosen a replacement and its in-house team will take over all designing duties.

 

9. SAINT LAURENT

 

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Anthony Vaccarello

 

After months of rumors and speculations, Hedi Slimane finally confirmed his exit from Saint Laurent in early April. The brand then appointed Anthony Vaccarello just a few hours after the designer left Versus Versace. Saint Laurent also deleted all of its old Instagram posts to signify a new era; an action that doesn’t sit too well with Slimane’s loyal supporters.

 

10. GUCCI

 

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An image from Gucci’s pre-fall 2016 ad campaign

 

It was going to happen sooner or later. In a move that seems natural to gender-bluring Gucci, Alessandro Michele will combine men’s and women’s fashion shows starting in 2017.

 

11. PUBLIC SCHOOL

 

public school
Public School show during New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015

 

Public School declared plan to change its show schedule. The brand will present men’s and women’s collections together in December and June. It will also label the collections as “Collection 1″ (for pre-spring and spring) and “Collection 2″ (for pre-fall and fall).

 

12. CALVIN KLEIN

 

italo zucchelli leaving calvin klein
Italo Zucchelli

 

Calvin Klein‘s Men’s Creative Director Italo Zucchelli, along with Fransisco Costa, his counterpart in the Women’s department, left the brand at the same time. There have been rumors of Raf Simons‘ impending appointment, so we’ll just have to wait and see.

 

12. CANALI

 

andrea popilio left canali

 

After two years, Andrea Pompilio has decided to part ways with Canali. Reports say this decision is a mutual agreement between the two parties. An in-house team will work on the brand’s spring 2017 collection.

 

13. BOTTEGA VENETA

 

bottega

 

The brand’s spring/summer 2017 show at Milan Fashion Week this September will be a monumental one for Bottega Veneta. Not only will it coincide with the brand’s 50th birthday and the anniversary of Tomas Maier’s 15th year as Creative Director, the show also marks the first time Bottega Veneta will present its men’s and women’s collections together.

 

 

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